What to do in Dijon ?
Running a wine shop as well as one of the highest rated wine tasting room in Dijon, I am often asked where to go in Dijon, what to do and where to eat. As most people are coming to Dijon for 1 to 3 days, I tried to make this blog post short but efficient.
Here are my tips for you!
What to see
The Musée des beaux arts (museum of fine arts), is one of the highest regarded in France. You can easily spend a day there, discovering the Burgundian heritage and the story of the Dukes of Burgundy.
By the way, you cannot miss the tombs of the dukes which are absolute masterpieces from the XIV century. There are other treasures to see such as Egyptian and Greek collections, French Renaissance section etc.
There are some smaller but not less interesting museums in town. One of my favourites is the Musée de la vie Bourguignonne (Burgundy life museum). You will dive into the rural life of the 19th and early 20th century, you will discover the traditional outfits and see the old iconic Dijon shops the exact same way they were 200 years ago.
The Archeological museum is also worth visiting. It is Located in an ancient Benedictine abbey (9th century) next to Saint Benigne’s Cathedral, and showcases the history of Burgundy from the prehistoric era to the medieval age.
You can also have a glance at the sculptures of the local artist from the Napoleonic era, François Rude. The eponymous museum is situated near the main theatre. It is tiny, and depending on your interest, you can spend 30 minutes to an hour there. This is also where you can have a look at what’s left of the Castrum built by the Romans two millennials ago! It is next to one of the most beautiful Renaissance churches in France, Saint-Michel.
Notre Dame de Dijon and its 51 gargoyles frontage is a stunning gothic edifice dating back to the 13th century. Three very important features are not to be missed: the 900 years old wooden black virgin (one of the oldest in France). The Jacquemart, a bronze statue which has been ringing the bells of Notre Dame since 1382! And the 600 years old lucky charm owl sculpture on its left flank. Do not forget to touch it for good luck. But you must only use your left hand! Some people used their right hand. No-one could ever tell you what happened to them as they have all gone missing. Use your left hand.
On top of the Ducal palace and overlooking the beautiful Place de la Libération, the 46m of the Tower of Philip the Good (15th century) offers the best view in town. Brace yourself as you will have to go through 316 steps to reach the top!
Les halles
The Dijon Market, an authentic Burgundian market locally know as Les Halles, is a true jewel! The building itself dates back to 1875, and even though many people think it was built by the Dijonnais Gustave Eiffel, architect of the Eiffel Tower and of the Statue of Liberty, it actually was built by another French architect, Louis-Clément Weinberger.
You will find there some of the best and most authentic food: cheese, meat, vegetables , and other Burgundy specialties. All from local producers. There is a little bar at the entrance where you can enjoy a glass of wine, while bringing some food from the shops around. However, you have to be careful: you can easily go there for a quick drink and actually stay till close!
The market opens every Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 7.30am to 1pm.
If you are around for no more than a day or two, The Owl trail is the best way to see as much as you can in just a few hours. It is named after the tiny 15th century sculpture mentioned previously. Follow the trail to sight all the must see: Hotel Chambellan, Les Halles, The Palais des Ducs (now Dijon city hall), Saint Benigne’s Cathedral etc.
For more information about it, and to get the map of the trail, pop into the Dijon Tourist Office. Their lovely team will be more than happy to help you out.
The new Cité de la Gastronomie is a great spot to learn about the French food culture, through permanent and temporary exhibitions. The best in my opinion is the Burgundy wine history exhibition in the old Chapelle.
You can also attend some wine tastings at Les Caves de la Cité. You won’t learn as much as you would during a tasting workshop at The Wine Compass as their sessions are much shorter, but they are still interesting. Their wine list is impressive, with nearly 3000 different wines from the world!
There are a few restaurants in la Cité, La Table des Climats having the best reputation.
Talking about food, here are a few restaurants suggestions:
Casual
Chez Septime: only one minute walking from The Wine Compass, the restaurant is well known among the Dijonnais, and serves homemade traditional food (sometimes with a twist). Beautiful Burgundy wine list and great atmosphere.
Chez Toque: kid friendly restaurant with great value for money and serving the best homemade jambon persillé, a true Burgundy delicacy. The wine options are very reduced but of good value.
Café de l’Industrie: the bistrot is located only 2 minutes away from the old market. The food is quite simple but of good quality, and the service is always very friendly.
Chez Leon, Le Bouchon du palais, Epicerie et Compagnie, all serve quality traditional food, and they rarely disappoint. The last one being one of the rare restaurants in town open on Sundays and Mondays.
Fancy “without the gloves”
Maison des Cariatides: the restaurant is located in a stunning edifice built in the early 17th century. The quality of this establishment is close to a Michelin star restaurant, but the prices are more than reasonable. They open on Sundays for lunch.
Docteur Wine: Wine bar and restaurant near Notre Dame. The wine list is impressive, and the food is interestingly eclectic in the evening, and more traditional at lunchtime. The wine waiters and sommeliers are all knowledgeable. My grandparents’ favourite restaurant!
L’un des Sens: If you are a proper food lover looking for an affordable but refined menu, this is your place.
Merídio: Mediteranean food in Dijon. If you have enough of boeuf bourguignon and snails, and are looking for a more summury food, this is the place !
L’Abenfant: Traditional food with local ingredients only. That means that you won’t be able to get a coffee there for instance, but they always look up for interesting alternatives! Impeccable service.
Proper fancy
L’Origine by Tomofumi Uchimura: this is a Michelin star restaurant that offers some of the most exquisite food in the region. The fusion cuisine will make your tastebuds travel from France to Japan, passing through Scandinavia! Their wine list is a Bible! Not for everyone’s wallet.
From March to September, and all year long on Fridays and Saturdays, I would advise you to book rather than just walk in to avoid any disappointment.
Cibo : the young chef recently got rewarded with a Michelin star. I heard fantastic reviews from the place but never got the chance to eat there. Feel free to give me your opinion!
Extra food tip for the French patisserie lovers
Beurre Noisette by Fabrice Gillotte. This is the fancy maitre chocolatier Fabrice Gillotte’s pastry branch. There will be a queue but those pastries are as good as they look and worth the wait.
Cocktail bars
Monsieur Moutarde : the bar is located in a stunning 13th century “hotel particulier”, the staff is super friendly and the cocktails always contained some local ingredients. You also can have a bite there.
Archipel : cool atmosphere, friendly staff and sophisticated cocktails and mocktails !
Miss the green spaces?
If you are around for a little longer than just a couple of days and fancy a bit of nature and water, or if you are here with kids who need to see some green playground, here are the Dijonnais’ favourite spots:
La Combe à la Serpent is a gorgeous valley located west of Dijon. You can easily spend a full day there if you like hiking and picnicking. Depending on the paths you chose, you can find some breathtaking views, the 200 years old stone hives lost somewhere in the forest, and even a deer park. The forest used to be haunted by a half snake half woman creature a few hundred years ago. Nowadays it is safe. I guess… Note that it is a 15 minutes’ drive from the city centre and that it is hard to access without a vehicle.
If you prefer to stay in town, the 17th century Parc de la Colombière is only a 30 minutes’ walk from the city centre. To access the 33 hectares of trees and animals farm, you will walk through the Allées du Parc (a better version of the Parisian Champs Élysées ), where you will admire the most stunning manors and mansions in town, often dating back to the 19th century.
The Jardin de l’Arquebuse, our botanical garden created in 1771, is only 2 minutes away from the central train station. Perfect for chilling, reading a book, or for taking your kids along the tiny stream while feeding the ducks.
For those who fancy a little swim, the Lac Kir, an artificial lake named after a former local mayor and WW2 hero, is only 10 minutes away by bus from the train station. You won’t be surfing waves like in the Atlantic of course, but it is a great spot to cool down and chill on the sand beach.
Where to go shopping?
The long Rue de la Liberté in the heart of Dijon, is home of many clothing shops, among them, the famous Galleries Lafayette (smaller than the Parisian version). If you are looking for delicatessen, the nearby Edmond Fallot mustard shop is worth a detour. They are the last family mustard makers in Burgundy. You will find there a wide range of mustard, vinegar and pickles.
They are located next to one of the most ancient and beautiful medieval houses, La Maison Millière, now a tea house and wine bar.
100m away, you can stop at the Johnatan Pautet chocolate factory. These are some of the finest chocolates you will find in the region. They are not cheap, but bloody delicious! Both shops are located in the Quartier des Antiquaires (antique shops district), which is full of history with medieval buildings at every corner.
5 minutes away is the old Mulot & Petitjean gingerbread shop, place Bossuet.
I used to go to school near their factory, where one could smell the cloves, cinnamon, aniseed and nutmeg aromas from dusk till dawn! There are many other Burgundy specialties there for those who are not gingerbread fans. If you do not like anything they sell, you still have to pop in that shop as it is one of the oldest and most splendid establishments in town, with a gorgeous authentic interior!
How about wine?
You are searching for amazing value French wines?
I could only advise you to go to The Wine Compass.
The owner might not be the brightest bulb in the box, but he is passionate and very welcoming. As the wine shop is only open by appointment, it is strongly advised to call or email before turning up. And if you are looking for a fantastic wine tasting experience, this is the place!
Fancy a good coffee while shopping in town?
My advice on that matter is to forget about it and go to the nearest wine bar, such as the one owned by a young and dynamic couple, Valentine et Hugo.
Though, if you really need a coffee or a tea, try La Causerie des Mondes near the city hall, or Caffé Gufo behind Notre Dame.
I hope that this article will help you organize your journey in the Burgundian capital. Should you have any wine tasting or sightseeing question, do not hesitate to contact me!
Matthieu Aravantinos DipWSET and Dijon lover
